i550class.org

Tim Ford wrote:Good stuff and thanks for the intell, Michael. As for "hiking-restrictors," do you mean something like the granny bars on a Laser SB3?

...yeh,,,a 2'' rail at the gunnel

Hi Tim, sorry I missed this conversation yesterday. I used metal duct tape, the kind you use for metal air conditioning, to seal the area between the halves. If I remember correctly, i put multiple layers on, and had no trouble with the lead melting through. Good luck!

Excellent idea, Rocky. Thanks! I can use that for the ends, away from the foil, and then I'll just use the epoxy slurry for the middle part.

You can get it in 3 or 4 inch width!

About the centralized weight issue- unless your hull is at class weight already (Ben thought his was a hundred over or something?), you really want a near max weight bulb. Both classes have pretty stiff penalties for underweight boats that will make the bulb a very attractive place for weight, versus in the ends of the boat.

Nobody's checking this stuff now, but it's still a good idea to plan as if it will be eventually.

I mentioned this on the hull#87 build log, Rocky, but I just wanted to say thanks for the tip on using aluminum tape. That stuff did the trick perfectly and as a bonus, the adhesive peels off super easy. It left no discernible residue (at least, none that I could find). Brilliant!

Put the keel and bulb together yesterday. I still have a lot of fairing/sanding to do on the bulb. I was surprised at how far forward the foil is on the bulb. I did not plan it that way. Think it makes any difference?

It weighs in at 174 +/- 3 pounds.

When you lift the strut is it back heavy? The only problem I can think of is it binding in the keel box if it is to heavy aft. If that's the case maybe move your lift piont further aft on the top of the strut. Looking good though, another big step done.

Looking forward to the lure design!

When I was inquiring about bulb CG in another string I implied that I would build a traditional wooden bulb pattern rather than a foam one. Here is an in-progress photo showing the upper part of the pattern rough-planed. Many years ago I indulged in a compass plane which proved valuable in generating all the shavings ....

My parting line will not be on the plane of symmetry, but on the horizontal plane - the pattern half is located for planning by two dowels set into the workbench. You may also notice that I have chosen to round the square tail of the beavertail in plan view.

Looks great.
After use, varnished, it'll look a lot better mounted to a hallway ceiling than the foam one!

Chad,

Regret no varnish in my future on the bulb pattern. I once owned a varnished International 14 (that is an admission of age ... I bet there hasn't been a wooden one built in 20 or 30 years) that inevitably needed paint to cover the war wounds. It was only when I sanded and applied white primer that I realised just how ugly a surface finish varnish could hide through its lack of contrast. Pretty, yes, but a great hider of sins, despite transparency.

On to filling the divots before more fairing: haven't I heard that complaint before?